Knits are made from interlocking loops of yarn. That structure makes a sweater soft and stretchy, and also easy to stretch out, shrink or damage with the wrong handling. A few habits keep sweaters looking good for many seasons.
Fold knits instead of hanging them
A sweater is heavier than it looks, and the loops of a knit give way under steady pull. When a sweater hangs, its weight pulls down from the shoulders. Over time the body and sleeves grow longer and the neckline stretches.
Hangers also leave bumps. The ends of a hanger press into the shoulders and push the knit into a point. On many sweaters, those shoulder bumps do not relax on their own.
Fold sweaters and keep them on a shelf or in a drawer. A simple method:
- Lay the sweater face down on a flat surface.
- Fold each sleeve across the back.
- Fold the sides in so the body forms a neat rectangle.
- Fold the bottom up to the shoulders, or in thirds for a long sweater.
Avoid stacking too many sweaters in one pile. The ones at the bottom get crushed and creased. Put heavier knits at the bottom and lighter ones on top.
If you have to hang a knit for a short time, fold it in half lengthwise and drape it over the bar of a hanger instead of hanging it from the shoulders.
Pilling and how to remove pills
Pills are small balls of fiber that form on the surface of a knit. They come from friction. Short and loose fibers work their way out of the yarn, tangle together and form little knots. Pills show up most where the sweater rubs: under the arms, along the sides, on the cuffs and where a bag strap rests.
Some pilling is normal, especially on soft yarns such as cashmere and lambswool. Cashmere often pills most during its first several wears, as the loosest fibers work free. On blends that contain synthetic fibers, pills tend to stay attached, because the strong synthetic fibers hold them in place instead of letting them break away.
Removing pills carefully
The goal is to take off the pill without pulling more fiber out of the yarn.
- Lay the sweater flat on a firm surface. Do not do this while wearing it.
- Use a sweater comb, a pilling stone or a fabric shaver made for knits.
- Work in short, light strokes in one direction.
- Go slowly over thin areas and seams.
- Test on a hidden spot first, such as the inside of the hem.
A fabric shaver works fast, but it can cut into the knit if pressed too hard or used on a loose, open weave. Small scissors are fine for a few large pills. Never pull a pill off with your fingers. Pulling drags more fiber out of the yarn and can start a thin spot or a hole.
You can reduce pilling by turning knits inside out before washing, keeping them away from rough items such as jeans and towels in the wash, and giving each sweater rest between wears.
Washing wool and cashmere
Wool and cashmere are animal hair fibers with a scaly surface. Heat, agitation and sudden changes in water temperature make those scales lock together, and the sweater shrinks and thickens. This is called felting, and it cannot be reversed.
Hand washing
Many wool and cashmere sweaters can be hand washed if the care label allows it.
- Use cool or lukewarm water, and keep the wash and rinse water close to the same temperature.
- Use a mild detergent made for wool or delicates.
- Submerge the sweater and press it gently. Do not rub or scrub.
- Let it soak briefly, then rinse it the same gentle way.
Never wring or twist a wet sweater. Wet wool is weaker than dry wool and stretches easily. Press the water out instead. Then lay the sweater on a clean, dry towel, roll the towel up with the sweater inside, and press on the roll to draw out more water.
When professional cleaning makes sense
Hand washing is not right for every sweater. Consider professional cleaning for:
- Sweaters labeled dry clean only
- Structured knits with linings, shoulder pads or tailored details
- Knits with beading, sequins, leather trim or other embellishments
- Deep or bright colors that may bleed
- Blends where the different fibers need different handling
- Bulky sweaters that are hard to dry flat at home
- Stains you have not been able to remove
Dry cleaning uses a solvent instead of water, which is one reason it is often recommended for wool and other fibers that react badly to water and agitation. The care label is the maker’s guidance for that specific garment, so read it first.
Drying flat
Always dry knits flat. Hanging a wet sweater lets the weight of the water stretch it out of shape, often for good.
- Lay the sweater on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack.
- Gently ease it back to its original size and shape. Straighten the ribbing, square the shoulders and line up the sleeves.
- Keep it away from direct sun, radiators and heating vents.
- Turn it over once the top side is dry so the underside can dry too.
Do not put wool or cashmere in a tumble dryer unless the label says it is safe. Heat and tumbling together cause shrinking and felting quickly.
Moths and how to prevent them
The damage comes from clothes moth larvae, not the adult moths. The larvae feed on keratin, a protein found in wool, cashmere, alpaca, mohair, silk, fur and feathers. They prefer dark, undisturbed places, and they are drawn to garments that carry traces of food, sweat and body oils.
Prevention comes down to a few habits:
- Clean sweaters before storing them. A sweater worn only once may look clean but still carry the residue larvae look for.
- Store knits in clean, tightly closed containers or storage bags.
- Take out, shake and inspect stored knits now and then. Moths favor items that are left undisturbed.
- Vacuum closet floors, corners and shelves, especially in dark spots.
- Watch for signs of trouble: small irregular holes, thin patches, fine webbing or silky tubes, and tiny cocoons in seams and folds.
Cedar blocks and lavender sachets are popular, but their effect is limited and fades as the scent fades. Treat them as an extra layer on top of cleaning and closed storage, not a replacement for either.
Mothballs are pesticides. If you use them, follow the label directions exactly, keep them in a closed container with the clothes and away from children and pets, and expect the odor to linger in the fabric.
Storing knits between seasons
Before putting sweaters away for spring and summer:
- Clean everything first. Stains that sit for months can set, and soil attracts moths.
- Make sure each sweater is completely dry before it goes into storage.
- Fold them. Do not hang them.
- Use breathable fabric storage bags or clean, lidded containers. The thin plastic that comes over clothes from a cleaner is meant for getting garments home, not for months of storage.
- Place acid free tissue between the folds of fine knits if you want to soften creases.
- Store them in a cool, dark, dry place. Avoid attics, garages and damp basements.
Questions about a particular sweater
If you are not sure how to clean a specific knit, call (281) 357-8600 or stop by the counter at 28145 State Highway 249 in Tomball.