Most clothes sold in the United States carry a small label with a row of symbols. Those symbols are a compact set of instructions from the maker. Once you know the five basic shapes and the few marks that modify them, you can read almost any label in a few seconds.
Why the label is there
In the United States, care labels are governed by the Federal Trade Commission’s Care Labeling Rule. The rule requires manufacturers and importers of most textile apparel to attach a permanent label that gives at least one safe method of regular care. The label must also warn about any part of that method that would harm the garment, such as a temperature that is too high or a bleach that should not be used.
Two points about the rule are useful to keep in mind. First, the label only has to give one safe method. It does not have to list every method that would work. Second, makers may use symbols in place of words, as long as they use the recognized standard symbols. That is why so many labels now show pictures instead of sentences.
The five basic shapes
Every symbol on a care label starts from one of five shapes. Each shape stands for a stage of care.
- Washtub: washing
- Triangle: bleaching
- Square: drying
- Iron: ironing
- Circle: professional cleaning
A large X drawn through any of these shapes means do not do it. A washtub with an X means do not wash. A circle with an X means do not dry clean.
Washing: the washtub
A plain washtub means the item can be machine washed. A washtub with a hand dipped into it means hand wash only.
Dots inside the washtub show the maximum water temperature. More dots mean hotter water. Under the US standard, one dot means cold, about 85°F (30°C). Two dots mean warm, about 105°F (40°C). Three dots mean hot, about 120°F (50°C). Labels can go up to six dots for very hot water, but you will rarely see that on clothing. Some labels, especially on clothes made for other markets, print the temperature in degrees Celsius inside the tub instead of using dots. The meaning is the same: do not go above that temperature.
Lines under the washtub tell you how gentle the cycle should be.
- No line: a normal cycle is fine.
- One line: use a permanent press cycle, which has a cool down and gentler spin to limit wrinkling.
- Two lines: use a gentle or delicate cycle with low agitation and a short spin.
Bleaching: the triangle
An empty triangle means any bleach may be used when needed, including chlorine bleach. A triangle with two diagonal lines inside it means use only bleach that contains no chlorine, such as oxygen bleach. A triangle that is filled in or crossed out means do not bleach at all.
Chlorine bleach can strip color from dyed fabrics and can weaken or yellow fibers such as wool, silk and spandex. When the label limits bleach, follow it.
Drying: the square
The square covers every kind of drying. A circle inside the square means tumble dry in a machine.
Dots inside that circle show the dryer heat setting. One dot means low heat. Two dots mean medium heat. Three dots mean high heat. A circle that is filled in solid means tumble dry with no heat, which is the air or fluff setting. Lines under the square mean the same thing they mean under the washtub: one line for permanent press, two lines for gentle. A square with a crossed out circle means do not tumble dry.
Several symbols describe drying without a machine.
- A curved line along the top of the square, like an envelope flap: hang to dry on a line.
- Three vertical lines inside the square: drip dry. Hang the item while it is still wet, without wringing.
- One horizontal line inside the square: dry flat. Lay the item on a flat surface, which matters for sweaters that would stretch on a hanger.
- Two diagonal lines in the upper corner of the square: dry in the shade, away from direct sun.
Ironing: the iron
The iron symbol uses dots for temperature, just like the washtub and dryer. One dot means a low setting, suited to fibers such as acrylic, nylon and acetate. Two dots mean medium, suited to polyester, silk and wool. Three dots mean high, suited to cotton and linen. These fiber pairings are general guides, and a blend should be ironed at the setting for its most heat sensitive fiber.
An iron with an X means do not iron. An iron with crossed out lines below it, like steam rising, means iron without steam.
Professional cleaning: the circle
The circle tells your cleaner how the garment can be professionally cleaned. It is mainly written for the cleaner, but it helps to know what it says before you buy something.
The letter inside the circle names the method or the type of solvent that is safe.
- P: the item can be dry cleaned in any of the common dry cleaning solvents except trichloroethylene. Perchloroethylene and petroleum based solvents fall under P.
- F: the item can be dry cleaned only in a petroleum (hydrocarbon) solvent. This usually signals a fabric, trim or dye that a stronger solvent could damage.
- W: the item can be professionally wet cleaned. Wet cleaning uses water, special detergents and computer controlled machines, followed by careful drying and finishing. It is a professional process and is different from washing at home.
- A: under the US standard, any solvent may be used. This letter is less common on current labels.
Lines under the circle work the same way as elsewhere: they call for a gentler process. Some labels add extra marks outside the circle, such as a note for low heat, reduced moisture, a short cycle or no steam finishing. A plain circle with an X means do not dry clean. A circle with a W and an X means do not wet clean.
Reading the label in order
Symbols are usually printed in the same order as the care steps: wash, bleach, dry, iron, then professional cleaning. If a label shows a washtub with an X, a triangle with an X and a circle with a P, the maker is telling you that the safe method they tested is dry cleaning, and that washing and bleaching may damage the item.
A few practical habits help.
- Read the label before you buy. A garment that needs special cleaning has a real cost over its life.
- Do not cut labels out. If you find them scratchy, remove them carefully and keep them in a labeled envelope.
- When a garment has more than one fabric, such as a lined jacket or a dress with lace trim, the label reflects the most delicate part.
- If a label has faded or is missing, treat the item as delicate until you know more.
When the label leaves you unsure
Labels are written for typical use, and they do not cover every situation. A stain, an old repair or a garment with no label at all can change what is safe. If you have a question about a specific garment and its label, you are welcome to call Tomball Cleaners at (281) 357-8600 or bring it to the counter at 28145 State Highway 249 in Tomball.