Drop off dress shirts for laundering and the counter will usually ask how much starch you want. The answer changes how the shirt looks, how it feels and how long it lasts. Here is what the choices mean and how to pick one.
What starch does
Starch is a stiffening agent applied to a shirt during laundering, before it is pressed. When the shirt is pressed with heat, the starch sets into the fibers and holds them in place. The result is a smoother, crisper shirt that keeps its pressed shape longer through the day.
Starch also leaves a thin film on the surface of the fabric. That film helps the shirt resist wrinkles. It can also make some soil easier to wash out the next time, since part of the soil sits on the starch instead of deep in the fibers.
Starch works best on plant fibers, mainly cotton and linen. It has much less effect on polyester and other synthetics, which do not absorb it the same way.
The usual choices
Most cleaners describe starch in four levels. The exact feel varies from shop to shop, so treat these as general descriptions.
None
The shirt is laundered and pressed with no starch. It looks neat and pressed, but softer. The collar and cuffs relax sooner during the day. This is a good choice for people who want comfort first, for shirts worn under a sweater, and for fabrics that do not need the help.
Light
A small amount of starch gives the shirt some body without much stiffness. The collar and front placket hold their shape better than with none. For many people, light starch is the balance point between a sharp look and a comfortable feel.
Medium
Medium starch gives a noticeably crisp finish. The shirt holds its lines well through a long day. Some people find it a little stiff at first, especially at the collar.
Heavy
Heavy starch produces a very stiff, sharp shirt. It suits people who want a shirt that looks freshly pressed for as long as possible, and it is common for some uniforms. The tradeoff is comfort. A heavily starched collar can feel rough against the neck, and the shirt breathes less.
How starch affects wear over time
Starch makes fibers stiffer. Stiff fibers do not bend as easily, and when they are bent sharply over and over, they can break.
On a shirt, the sharpest bends are at the collar fold, the collar points, the cuff edges and the front placket. Over many rounds of starching and pressing, heavier starch can make the fabric in those spots more brittle. That can show up as fraying at the collar fold or cuff edge sooner than it would on the same shirt with light starch or none.
That is no reason to avoid starch entirely. Plenty of people wear starched shirts for years. It is a reason to choose the lightest level that gives you the look you want, especially on shirts you plan to keep for a long time.
A few other points to keep in mind:
- Starch can attract silverfish and other pests if a starched shirt sits unworn for months. Shirts headed for long term storage are better stored clean and unstarched.
- On dark shirts, heavy starch can sometimes leave a faint sheen or a whitish residue on the surface.
- A heavily starched shirt feels warmer because the fabric breathes less. In a Texas summer, that matters.
Fabrics and shirts that may not need it
Not every shirt benefits from starch.
Non iron and wrinkle resistant shirts are made with a finish that helps the cotton hold a smooth shape on its own. Many of these shirts look crisp with no starch at all, and some makers advise against adding it. Check the care label before choosing.
Shirts with a high polyester content will not take starch well, so adding it does little.
Soft, casual fabrics such as flannel and many brushed cottons are chosen for comfort. Heavy starch works against the reason you bought them.
Linen wrinkles easily, and light starch can help it hold a pressed look. Linen fibers are also prone to wearing at sharp folds, so heavy starch is usually a poor match.
Sizing versus starch
You may also see the word sizing, especially on spray products sold for home ironing.
In general terms, sizing is a lighter finish than starch. It gives fabric some body and helps an iron glide, without the firm stiffness starch gives. New fabric often has sizing applied during manufacturing, which is part of why a new shirt feels crisper before its first wash. Sizing is often recommended for synthetics and blends, where starch does not do much.
If you iron at home and want a soft finish with a little body, sizing may be closer to what you want than spray starch.
Hanger or folded
Laundered shirts are usually finished one of two ways.
On a hanger, the shirt goes straight into the closet. This is the common choice for shirts you will wear in the coming days. It keeps fold lines off the front of the shirt.
Folded, the shirt is pressed and folded around a backing, often with a collar support. Folded shirts stack neatly, travel well in a suitcase and take less room in a drawer. The tradeoff is that folding adds creases, usually across the body. When the shirt is tucked in, those creases often stay hidden. They can show if the shirt is worn untucked or under an open jacket.
Starch level and finishing work together. A heavily starched shirt that is folded holds sharp fold lines. If you plan to fold shirts for travel, light starch may give you a better result when you unpack.
How to tell your cleaner what you want
Be specific, and say it the same way each time.
- Name the level: none, light, medium or heavy.
- Say whether you want the shirts on hangers or folded.
- Point out any shirts that should be handled differently, such as a non iron shirt that should get no starch.
- If the collar or cuffs felt too stiff or too soft last time, say so. Clear feedback is the quickest way to get the finish you prefer.
It helps to try a level for a week or two before settling on it. Wear the shirt for a full day. Notice how the collar feels in the afternoon, not just in the morning.
Keep in mind that starch levels are not standardized across the industry. Light at one shop may feel closer to medium at another. If you try a new cleaner, expect to adjust your request once or twice until the shirts feel right.
Questions about your shirts
If you are not sure which level suits a particular shirt, call (281) 357-8600 or stop by the counter at 28145 State Highway 249 in Tomball and ask.